“Have you seen this?” The campsite receptionist shows us the video of Waiho Bridge collapsing.

We had just driven from Kaikoura to Murchison in the torrential rain with plans of exploring the east coast of the South Island. I guess that idea is out the window.

Dylan du Ross, who recently left Hawke’s Bay, is sharing his travel experiences around New Zealand.

We were faced with the decision of turning back, or doing a small part of the east coast, and then travelling down through Arthur's Pass to Christchurch. A rough night's sleep passed. It was time to front up and head to Greymouth.

The view from Gentle Annie's.

The Gentle Annie's campground would be our home for the night. And that's what it felt like, a home. It was the nicest place we've stayed at by far. Cheap freshly baked goods (once you let them get slightly old), nice coffee, and it had a really chilled but professional vibe. Everything was nice. There was also a beach and a camper with four of the cutest dogs.

To the left of the campsite, an internal battle was going on, both sides steroided up from the storm. The Mohikinui River vs the Tasman Sea. A fast-flowing river crashing into powerful waves, it was like two male rams fighting. The battle sent a reminder not to mess with mother nature. I won't be crossing any rivers, any time soon.

Unfortunately, the next day didn't go as planned. A hunt for Maggie's phone took the whole morning pushing our hike out further. Hours were spent using apps, clearing out bags, and asking anyone under the sun if they'd seen the phone. After everything It was under the mattress we sleep on. The first place we should have looked. Classic.

The beach beside Gentle Annie's.

To the Heaphy Hut

The Heaphy hut is part of a great walk called the Heaphy track – 78.4kms of varying landscapes, each kilometre beautiful in its own right. Unfortunately, the track is just one way. A serious lack of friends in the South Island meant we had no one to pick us up on the other side if we walked the full track. I couldn't afford a shuttle either, so the decision was made to hike the last section, which fortunately for us, is said to be the best part anyway. Perfect.

“Bon voyage.” An elderly lady wishes us luck in French. Do other cultures use English one liners as much as we use theirs? I doubt it. After 100m our first bridge appears, the other side was apparently a portal as we go from a very open pathway, into some sort of  natureous tunnel. Punga, flax, and many other trees I'm yet to learn build the walls/ceiling, and then stone for the floor.

The most miraculous thing was the smell. A caramelly, strawberry scent filled my nostrils. It was amazing. I laughed as I realised five minutes on that it was the person's perfume in front of us. Come on Dylan.

Stone turns into sand, and forest turns into a beach. What was going on? In all my two months of hiking, I've never done anything like this. An elevated platform, built on top of the rocky shoreline gave us protection from the petulant waves. Signs warned us that at high tide the track is impassable. Flashbacks of nearly being stuck with the seals in Kaikoura occurred. This time however, we had timed it perfectly, by accident.

As we ventured past waterfalls, through rivers, over rivers via rock or bridge, and closer to the Heaphy Hut, it became obvious that this was Nikau Palm territory. They stand over you like a pack of thugs. Being the most southern naturally growing palm tree, I guess it was fair that they controlled this area. Luckily, the gang didn't say much, just watched, as you walked through.

After four hours of hiking the hut was close, ahead of schedule. We knew that because “20 minute beach” passed by in just 18 minutes. A renaming is in order.

Finally, at 5:30pm the hut was before us, standing large and proud. It was one of the most modern huts in New Zealand. Lights, electric cookers, and even flush toilets. We're up for a good night's sleep. Maggie reminds me that we need to put up the tent outside before dark. Bummer, I forgot we only bought tent passes as it was too expensive to stay inside. It was going to be a long night, battling the strangest of bird sounds, insects, the cold, and my super uncomfortable spider bites.

The Heaphy hut was a spectacular, unique walk which anyone can do. It takes a romantic walk on a beach to a whole new level.

I found myself slightly not interested at first as all I want to do is climb mountains, but now, so many more doors have opened up for me and I'm looking forward to exploring other tracks like this one.

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• Lifestyle