Wine column: Euro Flash!
Hawke's Bay wine writer Yvonne Lorkin is the Chief Tasting Officer of www.WineFriend.co.nz.
What’s not to love about Europe?
For starters we owe our entire wine culture to that part of the world and that says it all really. The classic wine varieties we know and love such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon were all sourced from France, however there are some gorgeous, lesser known euro stars beginning to make an appearance (and a huge impression) on our kiwi palates.
With its classic peach and citrus fruit flavours backed up by zesty acids and a touch of minerality, Albariño is widely planted in northwest Spain and Portugal, where it’s recognised as their best and most fashionable white grape – a bit like their sauvignon blanc. Coopers Creek Vineyards made one barrel in 2011, and the critics raved. When they released the next one back in September 2012 it immediately scooped a Trophy for Best ‘Other White’ at the Romeo Bragato Awards, then just weeks later it scored a second trophy at the NZ International Aromatic Wine Competition and then the following November it landed a third trophy at the Air NZ Wine Awards. To win three trophies in a row is a rare feat, and the fact that it’s from a relatively new grape in NZ is pretty amazing.
Petit Manseng is a super-zesty, citrus and spice-laden white from the south of France and it’s rarely seen in New Zealand. But organic, biodynamic Marlborough producer Churton Wines and more widely-known Forrest Estate have examples on the market and believe me, they’re all sensational – so keep your eyes citrus-peeled. Another French variety that’s been in New Zealand for a few years but is now starting to spread its wings is Chenin Blanc. Great examples are produced by Millton Vineyard (Gisborne), Esk Valley (Hawke’s Bay) and Margrain (Martinborough) – but now Astrolabe and others in Marlborough are taking the variety south. Its rich, white peach and green apple flavours make it a stunner during summer. And don’t forget Semillon. Sourced from Bordeaux, it’s a delicious alternative to sauvignon blanc and Clearview Estate in Hawke’s Bay make one which oozes summer flowers, freshly-baled hay, dried herbs and peach notes.
Austria is responsible for one of the most exciting new whites on the market. It’s called Gruner Veltliner and there are now over a dozen commercially available examples grown in Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay, Marlborough, Nelson and as far south as Central Otago. It’s lifted, floral and crunchy-fresh in the mouth with a hint of muskiness on the finish making it a sensational with seafood.
Oui St. Laurent!
Austria is also the home of the latest red immigrant to our shores. Named St. Laurent (because the flowering of the vines coincides with St. Laurent day in Europe), it’s an early flowering, late ripening variety that the team at Judge Rock in Central Otago’s Alexandra subregion have chosen to have a crack at. It’s an earthy-fresh, fruity, berry-driven red and they don’t make it every year, but definitely keep your eyes out. www.judgerock.co.nz
It’s been around since 1995, but we’re only seeing commercial quantities of Marzemino now. Church Road in Hawke’s Bay is producing a light, juicy, plummy red variety, native to northern Italy. With smoked chocolate gateaux characters and a long spicy finish – if you’re a slab of scotch fillet I’d be very afraid.
